Before, I used to follow the set-up as per the manual. But I found it easier for me to have an "all-out-zero" setting. AOZ.. Hmmmnnnn.. Sounds cool. I should get this patented..
Rear toe-in gives you stability in straight lines. But we are drifting so we want to minimize the stability in straight lines and make it easier to tip the rear end.
Camber settings - for me, this only applies in touring cars. Drift tires are hard. They don't "flex" when you turn. If you have a new set of tires and you give it some negative camber in the front, you will feel a little counter-steering action in your car. Then it wears down and what you have is a conical pair of tires with the same effect as a 0
o camber set-up. I prefer a 0
o camber as the tires wear equally and I can use the tires longer by swapping the tires from the rear to front. Plus once you get new sets of tires, it will have the same handling everytime.
Suspension - suspension set-up usually applies when the track is bumpier than the usual. If the track is flat, you can use ball connectors and never have a problem.
For the track we're running on, I prefer the medium (yellow) springs. But this depends on the chassis you're using. For a TB-03D, try red front and yellow rear - the front should always be softer than the rear. Don't forget to adjust your ride height to atleast 5mm - It's easier to drive over the markers
These settings worked very well for my previous chassis. Not in the format you've specified but I think you'll understand.
Try them out and tell us how you find them.
Dubai RC 
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