As we all know the Tamiya tt-01 is a great chassis to begin with as well to compete. Many of you guys that are new owners have many questions regarding; how to set it up to drift, what hop-ups to buy, and etc.... Well I will share as much knowledge possible here on this thread to help you all out.

There are four models of the tt-01:


-TT-01
Basic abs tub chassis, friction shocks, bushings on all drivetrain, stock can motor (27t)


-TT-01D
Basic abs tub chassis, oil dampening shocks, adjustable upper arms, ball raced, motor heatsink, sports tuned motor (25t), tamiya type-d compound drift tires


-TT-01R
Basic abs tub chassis, oil dampening shocks, adjustable upper arms, ball raced, aluminum center shaft and cups, motor heat sink, gt tuned motor, rear 2 degree toe-ins, includes tune spur gear set 55t and 58t.


-TT01 type E
New design, still abs tub chassis, friction shocks, ta05 steering bell crank, upper frame for less chassis flex, two peice bulk heads with seperate shock towers and adjustable shock position, and stock can motor.



Whats needed to make it drift? For the basics, this is what it takes to drift:

-Drift tires:
If you are cheap you can start off with abs 2" inner diameter plumbing pipe, or HPI type-t drifts, and Tamiya driftech tires.

-Lock differentials:
The tt-01's all come with planetary gear differentials, for most drifters. Its common to lock the rear diff, or buy a spool. For the front, you can run an adjustable ball bearing differential or a front one way unit. The ball bearing differentials cost around $35 by tamiya, but 3racing has them as well for half the price. If you really cheap and cant afford. Buy some CA glue, clean off all the bevel gears inside the diff and glue them together for a permanent lock. If you decide you dont want to do a permanent lock, you can use fuel tubing used on nitro cars, and cut small peices to jam between the bevel gears. Locking the diffs will help break tractions on the tires, so the chassis will go sideways easier.

Many TT-01 drivers asked, what hop-ups should I buy?
For most if you buy the TT-01 basic, or Type-E. You should upgrade to the following list down below, as for the TT-01D all is needed is an aluminum center shaft:

*= you need this!
-ball bearings * ( stock bushings tend to heat up and melt into the axles)
-aluminum propeller shaft * (stock plastic shaft wobbles and lose power from the motor to the drivetrain)
-adjustable upper arms * ( will allow the tt-01 to be tunable by adjusting camber on tires)
-metal motor mount * ( Needed if running a motor 19T brushed or lower, and 10.5 brushless and lower)
-carbon upper frame ( Stiffens the chassis for less chassis flex)
-rear toe-ins (will increase stabillity on a straightaway)
-adjustable steering turnbuckles (adjust front toe-in/out)
-front/rear sway bars ( Help increase tractions on a turn)
-adjustable ball bearing differential (adjust the tension on a diff for the amount power to distribute into the wheels)
-tamiya ball raced steering arms ( More precise and smoother, also reduced the sloppy stock steering arms)

What gearing should i run to drift? Here's a gear chart to help you out.

Depending on what motor you run, if you are stock 27t down to 20t. Just run stock gearing 61t/19t. For most brushless applications a 7.5 final drive would be a good start off. The smaller the pinion the more torque you will gain but lose top end speed. So its vise versa, the bigger you go on the pinion gear the more top-end speed but less bottom end torque. Be careful not to over gear your motors.

original poster: dorkymk3

is my Ultimate TT-01 part of the Models??...

jay is right.. those parts are definitely needed to make your TT-01 Drift and make you a DK right eathan??...

you can also see my ride if you want..

Jay
lemme get this straight, we lock or spool the rear diff rite. do we lock the front too or juz leave it as it is. Or use a front one way instead, but its exp.

yup having a locked rear axle and a front one-way will get you moving sideways on those sharp curves.
if you dont have FOW yet better leave the front as is.. do not lock it.

well its what most of us do..
but still you can try different setups depending on your driving technics

I have tried locking both front and rear Diff. of my TT-01, you cannot do the E-Break effect since your not in FOW/COW, but you can change direction of your drift a bit faster without puting up breaks. That set up maybe effective for large scale and wide curved tracks. but with both locked diffs you cannot do long drifts... that is if your not into OVERDRIVE..

i like this thread!!! i have tt-01!!!

Thanks guys, currently i have the rear locked and juz left the front as it is. Will think of a FOW later but for now i can still slyde juz need a lil more practice on sharp curves. :cheers:

Very informative thread guys....!
Decided to get the TT01- Drift version. Are the stock drift tyres supplied with the kit good enough?
Do they wear of quickly? If so can someone give me a part number of some good drift tires that everyone uses it. I'll buy them seperately then.

Cheers

i think tt01-Dridt spec comes with type D drift tires and its not good to drift. we usually use tamiya superdriftech and/or HPI t-drift tires

very informative thread... :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: thanks for the post

Good thread,

Although I am not a drift expert, putting toe-in on the rear is not going to do any good, in a racing setup it is advisable....drifting doesnt normally get up to speeds that will require more stability in a straight line.

Another, easier way to lock the bevel diff is to take one of the spider gears off the spider, and pop it in between the other two....easily done, and is completely reversible.

But like always, the setup would depend on your 'drifting/driving style' on the kit you use.

The 'rear toe-in' setup may be a necessity in 1:1 drifting.
"Tanner Foust", an American drifter, recommended that it was easier to drift his 350z when we toed-in the rear tires.

But from my experience, it won't help in 1:10 drifting.
You will get to slide more, but you will lose grip and eventually control.

All-out zero and equal weight distribution is my setup. Hehe. =)

different drivers different chassis different driving skills..
all depends on your personal preferences.

like my evo.. nobody can drive my evo the way i do its tuned-up specially just for me.
when others drive it.. "you got too much understeer jay" "you dont have enough damper movement jay"
but when they see me drive it.. "oh it seems ok when your driving it"

its not always the car that needs tuning up.. sometimes the drivers too