here are some info you should know..

STEERING: some steering plate has been designed to give a full range of ACKERMAN running options.
See illustrations / manuals for possible settings of your car.


RIDE HEIGHT: use the shock preload collars to set the ride height of your car
relative to the ground. Start with 4.5mm in the front & 5.0mm in the rear
(with battery and full electronics). You can experiment with chassis balance
by keeping the car level or by raising the front or by raising the rear higher.


CAMBER: use the upper link turnbuckles to adjust camber. Always use negative camber
(tires leaning in). More camber usually gives more progressive tire slipping,
while less camber will give a more direct feeling. Adjust according to tire wear.
1.5° of negative camber is a good starting point. Use a gauge for precise measurement.


SPRINGS: change the springs to control the attitude of your car on the track.
Stiffer springs react more quickly but may not handle bumps. Try to use springs
that keep the chassis level under cornering.

ROLL BARS: High end kit includes these sway bars (stabilizers) for maximum roll control.
If your car is struggling for grip or not handling over bumps, remove them to allow
more roll. Generally the end of the car that has an anti-roll bar will have fewer grips.

DROOP: droop is a common R/C term for the relative amount of shock/suspension down travel.
Limiting down travel (droop) can change the response of your car. The amount of travel
will determine how quickly the car transitions in cornering. Less droop will make the
car react quicker. More droop will slow down the response and allow more travel for
bumpier tracks.



CASTER: 2° and 4° uprights are usually included in high end kits so you can adjust caster.
Less caster will give more initial steering and less steering exiting corners.


KICK UP / ANTI DIVE (FRONT):
0mm difference in height gives 0° kick up, this set up gives the best response but
may not absorb bumps.


For bumpy tracks, experiment with adding kick up to improve front response.


For extremely smooth surface, you can also use anti dive by making the front
lower than the rear. This may make the car unstable or push.


REAR ANTI-SQUAT:

Level pivot blocks (0° anti squat) will reduce rear traction and increase steering.
Adding spacers under the front/rear (F/R) pivot block to add anti squat. Increasing
anti squat can give better rear traction but will affect the absorption of bumps.


GEAR RATIO: proper gear ratio should be determined by the available output power of the motor;
type of battery; track condition and layout. Refer to the diagram in your kit’s
manual for adjustment. It is also noted that making your pinion gear bigger than the stock recommendation will make your car faster but shorten your runtime & may damage your motor & esc.

REAR TOE IN OR INBOARD FRONT TOE:
Rear toe in can be adjusted by replacing the pivot blocks.
The sweep of the front arms can also be adjusted by changing the blocks.


FRONT TOE SETTING:
Adjusting the length of the steering link turnbuckles can give changes in stability
and steering response.

Toe in improves stability and easier to drive.


Toe out lessen your cars stability but increases initial steering response.


CAMBER LINK LOCATION:
To adjust the response of your chassis you can use a variety of camber link locations.
Generally, a longer link will have more traction but less stability
(quicker response). A shorter link will have less traction and more stability. Make this adjustment with roll center changes for greater effect.


DAMPER POSITION:



ROLL CENTER: high end chassis usually has features that allow you to adjust the front and rear roll
centers to suit in your driving conditions. A lower roll center (further away from the
Center of Gravity or CG) permits the car to roll or “lean” more but will make the car
sluggish and less responsive in and out of corners. A higher roll center (closer to CG)
will keep the car from rolling or “leaning” but make the car react faster in and out of
corners. Adjust the front and rear independently to find the best combination for your
track conditions.

With adjustable inner camber link heights and height adjustable pivot blocks, the roll balance from front to rear of your car can be adjusted by using different washer stacks under the ball studs and different pivot block spacers.

Inner Camber Link Height: for high traction surfaces, MOVE UP to lessen the grip.
For low traction surfaces, MOVE DOWN to gain more grip.

Pivot Block Height: for low traction surfaces, MOVE UP to gain more grip.
For high traction surfaces, MOVE DOWN to lessen the grip.


hope these helps guys.

Got some sedan tuning tips on the net..

Quote:

More Off Power Steering - (Less Off Power Traction) - It's always a give and take Front End Shocks more upright Shorter camber link More angle to camber link Bump-steer OUT Toe Out Lower Suspension Mounts (lower roll center) Less Caster More Ackerman Kickup Rear End Shocks more upright Shorter camber link More angle to camber link Raise Suspension Mounts (raise roll center) Anti-squat More On power Steering - (Less On Power Traction) - It's always a give and take Front End Shocks layed down Longer camber link Flatter camber link Toe-In Less Droop Anti-Dive More Caster Less Ackerman Rear End Shocks layed down Longer camber link Les Toe-In Less Anti-Squat or Pro-Squat

What setup works for you guys?

All good info....thanks J!

Personally I always go for the settings that will give me the best grip on an intermediate surface and work from there. Most of the settings are according to Tamiya manuals as a start. With all the sand and grit around Dubai, settings with the most grip are the best bet....and rarely will I use stabilisers....you need real good grip for that.

We dont get to push these cars to the limit here, but the Al-Ain track is a good reference, you can use a FOW there, and a really good trade-off is speed vs cornering. I like the speed of our stock class ST/13T BL or 25T brushed....it is a good speed that allows you to maintain control in the corners....too fast and you are off the track....

Would like to test the track at the Autodrome as well.....before the event...

There is also a very good setup guide based on xray T2 here

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/showfile.php?file_id=2525

Has lot's of detail and explanations, but maybe not applicable to all cars.