So you want to Start RC drifting in Dubai?
RC drifting is slowly but surely gaining popularity in Dubai. In my opinion, there would be TONS of more members if getting started was easier. So I decided to do something about.
==Table of contents==
[NOT YET MADE, if anyone wishes to help me out....]
==Things you should know before you start==
An electric RC car is much easier to understand and build than nitro powered RC cars. Some of the more important parts are explained below.
Battery: I don’t have to explain what a battery is. In the world of RC cars, there are two good types of batteries. Explained below
Lithium polymer: these batteries require some funds to get started with, but are your best bets In the long run. What you need to make sure when buying one, is whether your ESC (explained further down below) can handle it, whether it is hard-packed, and whether it is 2 cells or not (most people prefer 2 cells). For a more detailed guide on lithium polymer batteriesClick here
Nimh batteries: these batteries are easier to take care off, but give shorter run times. They do not suffer from usage that much, but it shows after a thousand charges. All ESC’s can use Nimh, and they are not dangerous at all, making it the best option for the younger drifters.
ESC: Electronic Speed Controller. This is a device that Is connected to the receiver of the transmitter, and to the motor. What it does, basically, is that when you press the throttle, on the transmitter, it detects those signals (from the receiver) and then passes those signals on to the motor, which then makes the car move. Be careful when you buy one, if you have a brushed motor, you want to get a brushed ESC, if you have a brushless motor, you want to get a brushless ESC. Also make sure your motor can handle your ESC, otherwise things can get very hot (FIRE!) and very expensive (BOOM!).
Motor: Much like an engine of a car, only cylindrical and powered by electricity. There are two common types of motors, brushless, and brushed, brushless being the better option in the long run, because it requires very little maintenance, and better performance.
Propeller shaft: this part is only found in shaft driven cars (do your research on this before you buy a chassis). What it does basically, is that when a gear at the end of the motor spins, it spins a gear that is connected to this propeller shaft, and it makes the shaft rotate in it’s place. The rotation is then given to the wheels through other gears explained later on (if I bother
). Anyway, these cars are said to be better for newbies. The chances of a pebble getting stuck in one of the gears are very little. I've never experienced a pebble in the gears even though my shaft driven car is tuned for rallying.
drive belt: this part is only found on belt driven cars (do you research on this before you buy a kit). What this does, is similiar to the way bicycle pedals work, motor (pedals) turn, move the belt (chain) distribute the power to the wheels, and off goes the car. You can also do a lot more fine tuning to belt driven cars, for example: you can make the rear wheels faster than the front, and vice versa. People say these are not great for parking lots, pebbles tend to snap belts and get stuck in gears, and belts can snap of age as well. I've had my belt driven kit for a few months now, like 4 or something, and mine are still healthy, even though they have taken a lot of abuse.
The term radio gear doesn’t refer to the sound system on your RC, it does in fact, refer to the transmitter (Tx), receiver (Rx), and the servo.
Transmitter: commonly of two types, 2.4 GHz, and ones with crystals.
2.4 GHz: the more costly but better option when it comes to radio gear. It is DIGITAL, resulting in absolutely no interference when you are racing with others. It is what the world is moving to. Almost all models come with model memory, a feature that allows one transmitter to be used with different cars, so you don’t have to buy an expensive transmitter every time you get a new chassis.
Crystal type: the older variety. Not recommended if you drift with friends or other people. It causes interference and often accidents. Some of them come with model memory, the others don’t.
Receiver: it is a device that can receive the signals that your transmitter sends out. And then pass it onto the servo and ESC (in case of electric cars).
Servo: It is a device that is attached to the steering of your car. What it does, is basically that it moves the arms attached the front wheels, and causes the car to turn when you want it to. It’s best to get a good servo, if you don’t it will cause under steer, meaning that the car won’t steer that well in the corners, causing you to crash, or run off road.
Chassis can be bought in many forms, and are made of different materials, all explained below:
Not recommended if you’re going to be drifting for more than 2 weeks. The electronics are not usually very good. The transmitters are the crystal type, the motors offer too much torque, the servo’s are not digital, and the batteries are usually bad.
It’s good if you’re not allowed to spend too much money and if you’re allowed to spend money once, and then not again for a LONG while.
Most of the “pro” chassis come in this form. It basically means with NO electrics, and usually no wheels. It’s best when you know your stuff, and wish to buy good electronics or use the electronics from your previous kit/chassis,
Almost ready to run. It’s a better option. It usually comes with wheels, chassis, motor, ESC. It however doesn’t USUALLY come with radio gear and batteries.
Most of the “pro” cars have their chassis made out of Graphite, or carbon fiber. Not recommended for newbies, as it a hard crash could chip bits off graphite off. Some cars have an Aluminum chassis, it’s good, but a hard crash could bend everything.
Other cars are made out of plastic. Recommended, it’s light, CHEAP, and if you break it, it’s easy to purchase another one.
Starting the hobby in Dubai….
Now as most of you all know, there aren’t a whole lot of Hobby shops here, the ones that I know off, are listed below.
An Ultimate place of Rc desires
Al Ithihad Rd, Inside Eppco station
Tel. 04 2623400
Thanks to vineshvijayan for telling us about it.
Showroom on Dubai Airport Road,
======Other things that might come in handy====
Posting this because everyone new to drifting ends up coming across Sushi drift tires, and then questions appear...
ABS is NOT the same as PVC!...it's not even the same material
ABS is a styrene and softer than PVC <------ More grip
PVC is a vinyl and is harder than ABS <------ Less grip
PE is an ethylene and is softer than ABS or PVC but has long life like ABS <--- Least grip, but still really good!
Tape is best on uber smooth surfaces like carpet <----- Don't bother with this if you're not on carpet. Also, be careful of the direction when you tape the wheels, otherwise the tape comes off when drifting.
Rubber is best when aiming for the high speed entries and tyre squealing...rubber is available in many types of compound/hardness
Foam is best on uber smooth surfaces like carpet...foam is available in many types of compound/hardness
Balance the cars handling with small stickon lead weights on the chassis from your local garage...add weight to the loose end
High turn motors have more torque but lower revs than low turn motors...use high turn for plastic tyres, low turn for rubber/high speed drifting
Setup the steering to have as much steering angle as possible...play with the different mounting holes in the steering components
Toe-in adds stability but slightly reduces top end speed (not important for us)
When you look at the car from above, the wheels will be facing towards each other. If the front edge of the wheels face towards each other, it's positive toe, if the rear ends of the wheels face towards each other, it's negative toe.
Diff locking is a great way to keep your car under control for those higher speed drifts...this can be done by different methods:
1. with thicker oil in geared diffs (or other substance like blutac, plasticine, paper....)
2. remove the balls in a ball diff and place composite washers either side of the diff gear
3. just crank on the diff screw to tighten it up
4. use a slipper diff (similar to 2. above)
5. buy solid axles, diff spools, diff lockers, call them what u will, they all lock the diff with a solid metal component, will not fail
Camber: Google it, it's kinda' hard to explain.
Plastic tyres (ABS,PE,PVC,Tape) need 0° all round
Rubber tyres work well with 2-4° all round and can be tuned just like grip racing
Caster: Google it again, it's kinda' hard to explain. Keep in mind, the standard caster is fine, unless you've done a countersteer mod.
Stock setup (around 4°)
Toe-in front and rear help stabilise the car on ABS/PE/PVC/Tape, try 2-3° at the rear and 1° at the front
Oil isn't really important with ABS/PE/PVC/Tape so 30WT is ok; but spring tuning makes an amazing difference, very soft fronts and slightly stiffer rears
With rubber tyres however go down the grip racing route, 60WT and stiff springs
VERY CAREFUL! - treat it like poking a balloon with a pin
This is currently a work in progress, I request the smarter people to read, and point out all mistakes. I have mentioned a few shops; I really hope that they do not mind me listing them.
In the guide, my opinions are easy to find…and disagree with. Please note, that this is my guide, I believe I have the right to include my opinions, if it is offensive, please feel free to tell me or a moderator to change it ASAP. If you disagree with my opinion, then please do NOT tell me about it, only tell me if I have included FALSE information.
Last but not the least, do NOT copy this guide, it’s not copyrighted, but you will accomplish nothing but a 14 year old’s work.